Glossary Of Watchmaking Terms

Watchmaking and horology can be confusing, this glossary of watchmaking terms should help.

Collector & Industry Terms

For enthusiasts and insiders—grasp the language of horological craftsmanship, certification, provenance, and the modern watch market.

Chronometry

(kroh-NOM-uh-tree)

Chronometry refers to the science and art of measuring time accurately, particularly in the design and function of precision timepieces.

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Tool Watch

Tool Watch: (tool wotch)

A tool watch is a watch designed to serve a specific purpose, usually work-related, and often includes additional functions beyond simply telling the time, such as those found in field watches, pilot's watches, and dive watches.

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Case & External Components

The outer shell that protects and defines a watch—learn the terms for bezels, crowns, crystals, and other vital exterior elements.

Bezel (Fixed, Rotating, Fluted, Ceramic)

Bezel (Fixed, Rotating, Fluted, Ceramic) would be (BEZ-uhl) (FIKST, ROH-tay-ting, FLOO-tid, suh-RAM-ik).

A bezel is the ring surrounding the watch face, which can be fixed, rotating for functionality like timing, fluted for decorative purposes, or made of ceramic for durability and scratch resistance.

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Movement & Mechanism Terms

The beating heart of every watch—discover the intricate systems that power timekeeping, from classic mechanical calibres to high-tech complications.

Automatic

(aw-tuh-MAT-ik)

An automatic watch, also known as a self-winding watch, is a mechanical watch that uses the natural motion of the wearer's wrist to power itself.

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Deadbeat Seconds

(dead-beet sek-uhndz)

Deadbeat Seconds is a watch complication where the seconds hand jumps precisely once per second, mimicking the behavior of quartz movements.

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Flyback Chronograph

(fly-bak KROH-nuh-graf)

A Flyback Chronograph is a type of chronograph watch that allows the user to reset the stopwatch hand to zero and immediately restart it with a single press of a button, without the need to stop the chronograph first.

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Minute Repeater

(min-it ri-PEE-ter)

A Minute Repeater is a complex watch complication that chimes the time on demand, typically indicating the hours, quarters, and minutes using a series of gongs and hammers.

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Regulator

Regulator: (REG-yuh-lay-tor)

A regulator is a type of clock or watch designed for precise timekeeping, often featuring separate dials for hours, minutes, and seconds to enhance accuracy.

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Vertical Clutch

(vur-ti-kuhl kluhch)

A vertical clutch in watchmaking is a mechanism where the chronograph seconds wheel and drive wheel are located concentrically on the same axis, allowing the chronograph wheel to engage the running wheel when activated.

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Dial & Hands

Where form meets function—explore the artistry and purpose behind dials, markers, hands, and luminous materials.

Dial (Sunburst, Guilloché, Enamel, Sandwich, Tapisserie)

Dial (Sunburst, Guilloché, Enamel, Sandwich, Tapisserie): (dy-al) (SUN-burst, gee-YO-shay, ih-NAM-uhl, SAND-wich, tap-iss-REE)

Dial (Sunburst, Guilloché, Enamel, Sandwich, Tapisserie) refers to various decorative techniques used on watch faces, where Sunburst creates a radial pattern, Guilloché involves intricate engraving, Enamel uses colored glass powder fused to the surface, Sandwich features layered dials with cut-out numerals, and Tapisserie displays a textured grid pattern.

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Lume (Super-LumiNova, Tritium)

Lume (Super-LumiNova, Tritium) would be pronounced as (loom).

Lume refers to the luminescent material applied to watch dials and hands, such as Super-LumiNova or Tritium, to enhance visibility in low-light conditions.

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Bracelet & Strap

More than just a way to wear a watch—understand the diverse styles, materials, and mechanics of bracelets and straps.

Bracelet (Oyster, Jubilee, President, Beads of Rice, Milanese)

Bracelet (Oyster, Jubilee, President, Beads of Rice, Milanese): (BRAY-sluht) (OY-stuhr, JOO-buh-lee, PREZ-uh-duhnt, BEEDZ uhv RYS, MIL-uh-neez)

Bracelet refers to the metal strap or band of a watch, with styles such as Oyster, Jubilee, President, Beads of Rice, and Milanese, each offering distinct designs and levels of flexibility and comfort.

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Rubber Strap

(ruhb-er strap)

A rubber strap is a flexible, durable band made from synthetic rubber, commonly used for securing a watch to the wrist.

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Tropic Strap

(TROP-ik STRAP)

A Tropic strap is a rubber watch strap originally designed for dive watches, known for its durability, water resistance, and distinctive crisscross pattern, making it a popular choice for both vintage and modern timepieces.

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